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A century ago, when Harley Davidson unveiled the very first leather motorcycle jacket, they could not have predicted it would evolve into the timeless attire of the American rebel: tough, fierce, and brandishing a Brando-esque attitude.
Leather “motos” gained an iconic status since the ‘50s — aided by Elvis, The Ramones, and Michael Jackson — especially in L.A., where biker chic is woven into the local dress code. Nevertheless, while they present a cool facade, the reality behind every jacket (and pants and handbags) often involves the skins of various animals including cows, lambs, pigs, sheep, crocodiles, emus, deer, rabbits, and even horses, presenting a less appealing picture.
“The leather industry likes to suggest that leather is a by-product of the meat sector,” asserts Ashley Byrne, president of PETA. “In reality, it is a co-product: They rely on each other for business. Both contribute to environmental issues resulting in water pollution, greenhouse gases, and toxic chemicals released from tanning processes.” Byrne emphasizes that the environmentally friendly alternative of faux, or vegan, leather has surged alongside the popularity of faux fur. Stella McCartney, who launched her namesake brand in 2001, was the pioneer in using plant-only materials for leather, with no animal involvement at all. Materials such as cacti, fungi, mushrooms, grape skins, corn, apples, mango waste, and pineapple leaves which can create piñatex, have been innovatively utilized in producing vegan leather, with new options continuously being developed.
Courtesy of Stella McCartney
With the involvement of LVMH, the conglomerate owning Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Givenchy and partnering with McCartney, a $200 million climate solutions fund has been established, encouraging extensive research into alternative plant fabrics. For winter 2009, she introduced the recycled plastic Falabella bag, which became popular with Kate Moss, Beyoncé, and Rihanna — recognized as the first vegan “It” bag. In summer 2022, she launched the Frayme Mylo bag, innovatively crafted from mycelium, a fungi-based alternative. The latest release this summer is the Hydefy Ryder, labeled as “the world’s first luxury bag derived from fungal micro-organisms.” Imagine that: your bag and your meal have origins in similar plants.
In the last 15 years, advancements in sustainable technology have propelled vegan plant leather into the mainstream fashion (seen in retailers like Old Navy, Tom’s, Target, ASOS, ALDO, Zara, H&M) to mid- to high-end brands such as Alice + Olivia, ALC, Jonathan Simkhai, and The Frankie Shop. Numerous collections of vegan leather accessories have emerged, including chic handbags by New York’s Carter Wade, while ethical designer Collina Strada teamed up with Ugg on its inaugural line of vegan Uggs.
Courtesy of Alice + Olivia
Now, let’s talk pricing. A stylish Loewe leather jacket commands $5,900. The luxuriously soft Rick Owens biker jacket ranges between $1,500 and $2,500. In contrast, you can acquire the Denny vegan leather blazer by Alice + Olivia for $495. So, can anyone truly spot the difference? Does it even matter? The Gap offers vegan leather jeans and skirts ranging from $20 to $60; Levi’s charges a bit more.
Vegan leather is making its mark on the red carpet as well, even if it often goes unnoticed. Emmanuelle Rienda, an established ethical fashion activist based in L.A., reveals she styled Olivia Rodrigo “because she embodies a plant-based lifestyle.” She collaborates with like-minded celebrities such as Jenna Ortega, Natalie Portman, and Lizzo.
On the Sunset Strip, co-founder Aleksandar Tomovic founded an entirely sustainable fashion showroom, Maison Privee, in 2017, featuring a “Green Room” packed with vegan snack options sought after by stars like Rooney Mara, Elliot Page, and Sadie Sink. “A decade ago,” Tomovic reflects, “vegan leather was synonymous with plastic and petroleum. Today, we have more positive, sustainable, and creative options available. Billie Eilish’s stylist frequently visits for garments, bags, and shoes. However, vegan footwear is still a challenge, as they haven’t been perfected yet.”
Courtesy of Jonathan Simkhai
Eilish stands out as fashion’s loudest vegan advocate, driving major brands to embrace alternative leathers. In 2023, she collaborated with Gucci to unveil its inaugural vegan leather bag, made from wheat, corn, wood pulp, and viscose. “Market research indicates Gen Z and Millennials view shopping as a reflection of their values,” observes PETA’s Byrne. Yet, how many Eilish fans that embrace ethical shopping can actually afford a $3,500 Gucci handbag? Regardless, she deserves credit for her efforts.
Rienda’s Vegan Fashion Week, which began six years ago as an ethical luxury conference, now showcases groundbreaking plant-based designs annually from around the world. “I aimed to make ethical fashion enjoyable, enriched with compelling storytelling,” Rienda states. “This movement encompasses more than animals; it involves three pillars: humans, animals, and the environment. Conversations with LVMH and Kering, the parent company of Gucci, Alexander McQueen, and Balenciaga, have been initiated. “Hermès is now experimenting with mushroom-based leathers.”
In celebration of Earth Day, Ferragamo, one of Italy’s esteemed and longstanding leather brands, is launching a “Back to Earth” capsule collection, featuring a new variant of its Hug Top Handle bag. While acknowledging the use of real leather, it is vegetable-tanned to minimize chemical usage and is produced in ethically certified factories.
“It’s a gradual journey,” remarks ethical stylist Rienda. “But it is a beginning.”
Courtesy of Alice + Olivia
This article is featured in the April 2025 Sustainability digital issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to explore the rest of the issue.